We know, from reader complaints and motor industry feedback, that many alignment centres are NOT doing the job properly. Not only do some shops rush through the work, but they often use the wrong specifications, because they have out-of-date information, or use their own pet values.

A limited amount of alignment can be done at home, especially on older cars, where it is usually possible to adjust castor, camber and toe. However, many modern workshop manuals state that only the toe is adjustable, and if any of the other settings is out, then some suspension parts are bent and should be replaced. In theory, the toe is the value by which the front wheel centrelines converge (toe-in) or diverge (toe-out), expressed in millimetres, as measured across the track.

Most measuring devices use the outside edge of the tyres as their reference, but you can also measure this at home by using the inside edge as a reference. Simple and inexpensive toe adjustment gauges can be bought, or simply use the extension facility of an old umbrella to make up a gauge. Keep in mind that the tyres have to be at the correct pressure, the vehicle has to be on level ground, and any link-rod adjustment must be done in such a way that the steering wheel position remains central. This is not always easy, even if somebody holds the steering wheel rigid while you make the adjustments.