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::Owl House
::Valley of Desolation
::Olive Schreiner House
::Mountain Zebra Park
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ALTHOUGH THE KAROO may not occupy the number
one slot on most travellers' "must-see"
lists, its contrasting features and resultant
unique charms make for an experience like few
others. This landscape is anything but predictable.
With the Sneeuberg mountains dividing the higher-rainfall
area of the coast from the arid Great Karoo, it
takes only a short drive to discover both.
Our
route starts at Graaff-Reinet, the country's fourth-oldest
town. If you take into account that the aptly
titled "Valley of Desolation" is only
a few kilometres away, Graaff-Reinet surprises
with its lush parks and tree-lined roads. The
architecture of the town varies from traditional
flat-roofed Karoo cottages to beautiful Cape Dutch
homes and Victorian mansions. In many ways the
historic buildings are the most attractive feature
of this town, and more than 200 houses have been
declared national monuments.
Graaff-Reinet is almost completely surrounded
by a nature reserve. The Karoo Nature Reserve
was established in 1975 to protect the spectacular
scenery in the Valley of Desolation, Spandaukop
and Drie Koppe. The reserve has plenty of wildlife
(mostly wildebeest, springbok and hartebeest),
but its main attraction has always been the bizarre
rock formations and rugged landscape, formed over
millions of years by erosion.
After the Valley of Desolation, take the R63
to Pearston and then join the R337 which leads
you over the Little Fish River and the Swaershoek
Pass to Cradock.
Cradock is another Karoo town that impresses
with its restored historic buildings. Many of
the commercial buildings and banks of the town
make use of sandstone structures. Die Tuishuise
in Market Street is a block of carefully restored
mid-19th-century houses. All with period furniture,
they serve as bed-and-breakfast
establishments.

Author Olive Schreiner, who wrote Story of an
African Farm, amongst many other literary works,
lived in a house in Cross Street from 1867 to
1870. The Olive Schreiner house now serves as
a museum of literature and is a National Monument.
Schreiner's grave can be viewed on the summit
of Buffelskop.
Another historical attraction is the Great Fish
River Museum behind the town hall. The museum
depicts the earlier history of the Eastern Province
pioneers from 1840 to 1900. Among its exhibits
are an ox wagon, a four-horse cart, a Cape cart,
and a hearse from the early Settlers period. The
garden is a typical example of a parsonage garden
of 100 years ago.
For
a panoramic view of Cradock and its surroundings,
drive up "Oukoop Hill" (it will take
only 20 minutes). Oukoop is more than just a good
lookout point - you can also view the Anglo-Boer
war soldier rock etchings.
Not far outside Cradock is the Montain Zebra
Park, home to more than 200 Zebras. The park also
has Springbok, Cape fox and black wildebeest.
Rejoining the R61 takes yo to Nieu-Bethesda,
a small village seemingly left behind by time.
A total lack of new investments and devlopements
did, however, have one advantage - today Nieu-Bethesda
is popular for its historical and architectural
integrity. Nieu-Bethesda's major attraction remains
the extraordinary Owl House - the work of artist
Helen Martins (1898 - 1976). Martins, born in
the town, devoted 25 years of her life to the
creation of a garden and home full of strange
glass and concrete statues.
Interest in Owl House has grown tremendously
and, as a result, the town now offers a good selection
of guest houses, restaurants and art galleries.
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